Dr Sabine Bellaiche
Medecin Esthétique, Centre Marais Esthétique, Paris 75003
A practicing doctor for 20 years, Dr. Sabine Bellaiche has specialized in aesthetic medicine for the past 15 years.
She is a consultant for beauty laboratories, a trainer in injection techniques in France and abroad, and a speaker at global conferences on aesthetic medicine.
Her constant thirst for new knowledge keeps her up to date with the latest trends and techniques to accompany her patients in complete harmony and expertise.
In July 2018, she handpicked a group of doctors and surgeons to join her in creating Le Centre Marais Esthétique in Paris.
What is driving 20 to 30-year-olds to your practice? What are they looking for?
Today, the 20 to 30-year-old age group represents up to 30% of my patients — twice as many as it was five years ago. Social media has caused an aesthetic revolution, significantly shifting desires and influences. The younger generation is more focused on preventative aesthetics and facial balancing while the baby boomers are ready to do and spend what it takes to stay “young.”
What are the differences in aesthetic desires between Gen Z and Millenials?
They don’t necessarily want or need to correct what’s already there, rather, they want to achieve a certain look and prevent visible aging. Both groups are focused on preventative aesthetics and continue to consult for acne (adult acne being on the rise) and skin sensitivity.
The Millenial generation has more realistic expectations and only wants tweaks here and there when it comes to aesthetic medicine. They seem to be more concerned about overall skin health than Gen Z.
Gen Z wants to look like their touched-up selfies or the celebrities they follow on Instagram…often with unrealistic expectations. They are driving the idea that cosmetic procedures are normal, something that they openly share. For them, this is no longer taboo.
Can you explain the concept of prejuvenation?
“Préjeunisse” in French or “prejuvenation” is about preventing the appearance of aging from an early age, using minimally invasive techniques with the prospect of not having to correct the signs of aging later on with more invasive techniques or surgery. These techniques include skin boosters, deep cleaning techniques such as HydraFacial, Peelings, Mesotherapy, and some types of laser treatments. These techniques present many advantages for a younger target audience. They can be performed easily over a lunch break, they are not painful, and there is no downtime. In some instances, they are “invisible” to others (no redness, or swelling…). No wonder they seduce so many young men and women!
What are the most popular aesthetic procedures among 20+ year-old patients? And are they returning clients?
My young population of patients is mostly looking for a natural glow, skin without imperfections, and a face with no lines and well-defined contours. As such, skin boosters, deep facials and mesotherapy are amongst the most in-demand treatments. Thanks to the internet, patients have become extremely knowledgeable, they know the names of the techniques and have a strong point of view on the procedures they should have done. It is really important for me to take the time to understand their main concerns and recommend what is best for their skin. This is critical to the success of the treatment and their overall satisfaction which will ultimately dictate their loyalty.
What are the latest industry trends?
This is a fast-moving market and so many new things are coming our way, be it from the USA or Asia. Skin boosters — superficial micro-injections — have been real game changers as they offer a large range of ingredient options and give instant gratification. Skin boosters provide deep hydration and create a “reservoir effect.” I tell my patients that it is as if I was placing a tube of cream within their skin! HydraFacials provide deep cleaning, tightening pores and reviving skin glow. There are also new laser techniques (like laser toning) that come from Asia that offer great results for skin tone and texture.
Do we have any scientific evidence of the long-term benefits of early aesthetic intervention in 20yo+ patients?
As this is quite a recent phenomenon, data is limited. I am nevertheless convinced of the importance and benefits of early prevention when it comes to the skin and to my mind, “prejuvenation” has to be approached holistically. Aesthetic interventions need to be integrated into a broader skin health program which extends to a good diet and skincare routine; enough sleep and physical exercise, adequate stress management, and no smoking!
What is the role of skincare in all this? What advice do you give to patients?
I am convinced that skincare skincare remains the foundation of “well aging” and a good skincare routine goes hand in hand with some aesthetic interventions. This begins with twice-daily facial cleansing, proper makeup removal, lots of hydration, and daily environmental and sun protection. When it comes to specific ingredients, I am a big fan of Vitamin C, Hyaluronic Acid, and low-dose Retinol. Retinol has been my long-time favorite as it is one of the most studied ingredients with clinical proof of a cumulative effect over time without any plateau.
I pay close attention to skincare product formulations because, for example, not all retinol-based products are equal. This is a very important concept. Today, patients are very knowledgeable about ingredients. They ask for specific ingredients but they underestimate the importance of the product base (vehicle) which plays a significant role in driving active ingredient skin penetration and skin tolerance. If the active ingredients are not formulated properly, they might be unstable, have no action, and/or even induce skin reactions. The product base (vehicle) needs also be adjusted to the skin type to provide skin comfort and an enjoyable product experience. Lastly, the combined used of ingredients should also be carefully orchestrated though the right regimen. Improper layering will decrease efficacy and increase the risk of side effects.
What is your secret formula for prejuvenation?
I believe in a 2-step approach. Prevention with a good skincare routine and regular deep-cleaning of the skin, and the treatment of underlying skin conditions (acne, couperosis, pigmentation…).
How do you define healthy skin?
A healthy skin is a smooth skin, with a natural glow, no redness, well nourished and hydrated.
Bibliography:
1. Fabi et al. Facial aesthetic priorities and concerns: A physician and patient perception Global survey. Aesth Surg Journal.2022, 22 (4). 218-229
2. Rossi M et al. Increasing patient satisfaction with aesthetic procedures. Pract Dermatolol 2015