Dr. Mukta Sachdev: Insights into Neurocosmetics and Their Applications in Skincare and Dermatology

Behind The Business Woman

What initially inspired your Dermatology journey, how has your passion evolved over the years?

I’ve been in dermatology for nearly 30 years, following a unique path that combines clinical practice, aesthetics, and research. I head the dermatology department at a large corporate hospital in India, run a boutique practice specializing in lasers and cosmetic dermatology, and serve as medical director of MS Clinical Research, a dermatology CRO testing cosmeceuticals, cosmetics, and drugs.

This threefold expertise gives me a 360-degree approach to dermatology, bridging patient care, innovation, and scientific validation. I’m also a global key opinion leader in skin of color, I’ve published extensively, lectured, and authored three textbooks on cosmetic procedures for skin of color.

Dermatology was not an obvious choice when I started studying Medicine as it was mostly about traditional topical treatments, but I was fortunate to train in the USA and witness the rapid evolution of Aesthetic Dermatology. This rapidly evolving and intriguing field challenges me to critically evaluate emerging trends, ensuring they are backed by solid scientific evidence before integrating them into my practice.

What sets my work apart is my access to advanced measurement tools that most clinical dermatologists don’t have at their disposal. This allows me to make precise comparisons and to truly practice evidence-based dermatology, which is at the core of everything I do.

What initially inspired your Dermatology journey, how has your passion evolved over the years?

My interest was first piqued when I came across a few skincare brands that explored the benefits of neuro-cosmetics in post-aesthetic procedures. They showed that using these topical products could help reduce pain, minimize inflammation, and improve barrier repair. This sparked my curiosity: Is there solid scientific evidence behind this? Could a product truly enhance procedural comfort?

As I explored further, I began conducting research in this area, and we are currently assessing the effectiveness of neuro-cosmetics. There’s a growing body of literature showing how EEG readings change when topical treatments are applied, measuring the impact on the brain, patient well-being, and overall benefits. Research has even shown that certain ingredients and fragrances can positively influence mood, improving overall treatment outcomes.

Neurocosmetics:

In recent years, there has been growing interest in the connection between the skin and the nervous system. Can you elaborate on this relationship often referred to as the skin-brain axis?

The skin and brain share a common embryologic origin, both derived from the ectoblast. Beyond its protective and exocrine functions, the skin plays metabolic, endocrine, and neuroendocrine roles, allowing it to communicate with the central neuroendocrine system and maintain homeostasis.
More than just a barrier, it is a sensory organ that produces hormones, neuropeptides, and neurotransmitters, forming the foundation of Neurocosmetics (1,2).

But this connection goes beyond the mind and skin, we’re now exploring the gut-mind-skin axis, adding another crucial layer to our understanding of skin health. It’s all interconnected. Neurons, fibroblasts, and keratinocytes actively communicate, directly influencing skin aging and improving overall skin quality.

How would you define Neurocosmetics, and how do they take a step further to become a breakthrough in anti-aging science?

The first definition of Neurocosmetics was attributed to Professeur Misery in 2000, describing them as “not absorbed products applied on the skin, exhibiting activity on the cutaneous nervous system or in general effects on the skin mediators.” In other words, Neurocosmetics are nontoxic, bioactive topical products designed to work at a neurological level without systemic absorption (2).

What makes Neurocosmetics cutting-edge is their position at the intersection of neuroscience and skincare, focusing on the dynamic relationship between the nervous system and skin health. By targeting neuroreceptors and modulating neurotransmitter activity, these products aim to enhance skin appearance and counteract aging effects.

Neurocosmetics use specific ingredients that influence the neural receptors in the skin, which detect different triggers like temperature, pressure and pain creating sensations such as cooling, warming or relief from discomfort. Once activated, these receptors modulate cell functions and impact nerve endings, leading to muscle relaxation, reduced inflammation, and improved barrier function.

Innovation in multifunctional ingredients is also transforming the field. Peptides influence nerve signaling, promoting muscle relaxation. Botanical extracts modulate neurotransmitter activity, supporting relaxation and stress reduction. Antioxidants protect nerve endings from oxidative stress, preserving their function. Capsaicin desensitizes overactive sensory neurons, providing relief from irritation and smoothing skin texture.

Another compelling area of interest are the beta-endorphins, small anti-stress peptides that play a role in relaxation and overall well-being. Notably, certain cosmetic ingredients can trigger their release, offering benefits beyond skin appearance by enhancing emotional wellness.

When we talk about Neurocosmetics in anti-aging, we’re looking at more than just wrinkle reduction. These products can contribute to modulate neurotransmitter release, which relaxes facial muscles, leading to a visible reduction in fine lines and wrinkles. They also stimulate collagen and elastin production through nerve signaling, enhancing skin firmness and elasticity. Additionally, Neurocosmetics can strengthen the skin’s barrier by influencing how the skin communicates with the brain, helping to retain moisture and protect against environmental aggressors.

With Neurocosmetics bringing a new dimension to skincare, the question of scientific validation becomes crucial. What is the current level of evidence supporting their efficacy, and what challenges do you see in establishing reliable data?

The biggest challenge with Neurocosmetics is the variability in studies. When we look at the level of evidence, it remains questionable, making it difficult to establish clear scientific backing. The data is not always reproducible, which remains a major challenge.

Since this is still a very new category, regulatory frameworks will take time to catch up and define standards for safety and efficacy. At the moment, several brands are already marketing themselves as Neurocosmetics, making claims about reducing emotional stress or enhancing feelings of well-being.

While these concepts are intriguing, quantifying such effects is difficult, and the available claims support is limited. While consumer perception studies are valuable, there is a need for independent clinical trials to substantiate the efficacy claims of Neurocosmetic products. From measurement techniques to regulatory approval, this whole approach requires further refinement and standardization to ensure credibility and reliability.

In which area do you see Neurocosmetics having the strongest potential? Do you believe its biggest opportunity lies in aging, or do you see applications in other skin concerns?

The strongest potential for Neurocosmetics lies in painful skin conditions, where they could have the biggest impact. While anti-aging will certainly play a role, the real game-changer will be in post-procedure skincare. If Neurocosmetics can promote healing while also alleviating pain and discomfort, they could represent a major breakthrough in dermatology.

Beyond pain management, Neurocosmetics also show promise in pigmentation treatments. Inflammation is another key area, especially in conditions like acne rosacea. A Neurocosmetic formulation that acts as an antioxidant, reduces inflammation, and minimizes redness could be a valuable tool for managing flare-ups and improving skin resilience, making it a strong candidate for dermatological applications.

For companies aiming to make strong, evidence-based claims, investing in clinical studies is essential. More robust research will be crucial in advancing our understanding of Neurocosmetics, and several CROs, including ours, are already conducting these tests.

Bibliography:

(1) Martins, A. M., Ascenso, A., Ribeiro, H. M., & Marto, J. (2020). The Brain–Skin Connection and the Pathogenesis of Psoriasis: A Review with a Focus on the Serotonergic System. Cells, 9(4), 796. https://doi.org/10.3390/cells9040796

(2) Rizzi, V., Gubitosa, J., Fini, P., & Cosma, P. (2021). Neurocosmetics in Skincare—The Fascinating World of Skin–Brain Connection: A Review to Explore Ingredients, Commercial Products for Skin Aging, and Cosmetic Regulation. Cosmetics, 8(3), 66. https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics8030066